inspired by history,
DECEPTIVELY SIMPLE,
INTRICATELY DETAILED
birthed from limitation
Traditional pattern cutting creates shapes within a square. Often these shapes leave empty space, which end up as offcuts that ultimately become waste.
When researching historical use of fabric, before sewing machines and modern dress conventions, it was often the use of simple geometry and single sheets of fabric draped on the body that provided the freedom of self expression and identity within social hierarchy.
Evolving a previous zero waste design to a more sophisticated pattern, provided both top and bottom pieces. A tunneling technique was used to taper the silhouette to the human form through organic drape.
The pattern is simple but provides the wearer a plethora of styling options…
WEAR IT HOW YOU WANT
Rotating the top piece turns a lined vest into a heavy-weight sweatshirt.
Inspired by Vivienne Westwood’s bondage strap bomber, the piece appears to restrict your movement, but allows for a full range of motion when participating in activities such as yoga.
Big pointy jacket
Rescued from a deadstock fabric shop, this 1982 ex-military cape has a traumatic history. The fabric was rigid and fragile, having been left in storage under a leaking ceiling. A stream had meandered over the fabric scarring and distorting its form.
To revive this veteran, the shape was re-imagined by saturating the fabric allowing for experimentation with folding techniques. The angular nature of the design paired with the rigidity of the dried fabric limited machine use, and forced exploration through hand-sewing using the thickest thread available.
A rescued bagstrap was added resulting in a multi-functional design: the silhouette of a jacket with accessible side pockets, with the ability to fold it down into a functional triangular side bag. To complete the piece, the ‘Wasteless’ repeat pattern is branded along the interior and a full-scale logo adds texture to the bag strap.
STYLED SHOOT
The garment is dynamic, constantly giving to the body’s movements. Enhancing and abstracting the form of the wearer. Something to explore your body with and express yourself.
MODELS: Huck & Quinn
TECHNICAL INSTRUCTIONS
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TECHNICAL INSTRUCTIONS *
TECHNICAL INSTRUCTIONS
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TECHNICAL INSTRUCTIONS *
clo process
Experiments to find correct proportions.
Finding the avaiable fabric for the top piece. (Utilises tunnel technique developed in PROVENANCE)
Development of top piece & trouser shape with lefotver fabric.
Piecing back together ensuring use of all fabric.
Iso view of first toile, assembled through CLo3D.
Side view of first toile, assembled through CLo3D. (Leftovers intended for bag, but was included in final trouser shape due to change of fabric.)
print process
Toile process
construction process
